By Bill Kearney for Food Republic
The metamorphosis of Miami’s food scene over the past decade has been kind of like watching a South Beach party girl grow up and move to the mainland. She used to shake her booty, pining for the attention of tourists in tony hotels on the beach; now she buys from the local farmers’ market, makes her own ricotta, nips leaves from her vertical herb garden and crafts damn good meals for her neighbors. An oversimplification? Sure — culinary giants still set up shop here to tap into the international cash flow, and they plate some phenomenal food, but smaller, locally focused eateries have made the mainland the belle of the ball.
A rash of closings this spring and summer has hardened survivors and made room for a new crop of openings this fall — some local, some imports. Lots of the places below have predicted early-fall opening, which in Miami means late fall. With any luck, the new kids on the block will be firing orders soon.
Situated in the soon-to-open Langford Hotel, a remodeled 1925 Beaux Arts–style building designated a historic site by the National Register of Historic Places, PB Station is the latest from the awfully busy Pubbelly Restaurant Group, which seems to open a couple spots each year. This is its first mainland location, and the menu veers to what they call American cuisine that pushes the boundaries of “comfort classics.” That means items such as California seaweed-based pappardelle with smoked brisket, local Swiss chard and dry shiitake jus, and a modernized take on charcuterie with octopus pepperoni, shrimp mortadella, king crab terrine, crispy cod brandade and Thai lobster sausage. Opening in November, 121 S.E. 1st St., Miami, 305-537-7040; langfordhotelmiami.com